It’s a terrible cliché, but also an established fact: a good wine pairing transforms a meal into a banquet. And Christmas, more than any other time of year, is a valid excuse for unabashed hedonism, explains James Lawrence.
Of course, a wine pairing is not obligatory; cider can be a welcome alternative, while beer aficionados are as exacting in their views on which beer goes best with which dish as the oenophile.
Yet wine offers more choices at Christmas than anything else. At the risk of being controversial, no other beverage has the range of flavours, textures and weights that wine can offer. Fine wine and Christmas deserve each other, like Harry and Meghan.
The following are just a few suggestions, to round off your feast in unmatched style…
Champagne and Sparkling Wine for Pre-Dinner Nibbles
Bruno Paillard Assemblage 2012 Champagne
Bruno Paillard produces a sublime, richly elegant vintage Champagne that never fails to seduce with its minerality, citrus fruit, white flower aromas and full-bodied palate. The flavours literally seem to leap out of this Champagne: honeysuckle, lemon, grapefruit, brioche and grilled nuts.
Where: Millesima.co.uk
How much: £75
Philipponnant Clos de Goisses 2012
The winemaking is ancient: the village of Mont de Mareuil in Champagne, where the Clos de Goisses vineyard is located, has been planted with vines since the 16th century. Venerable Champagne house Philipponnant acquired the vineyard in 1935, and immediately it became its jewel.
The 2012 vintage is spectacular – rich, complex and beautifully structured. Something special for Christmas Day, perhaps?
Where: Millesima.co.uk
How much: £190
Billecart-Salmon Sous Bois
Billecart-Salmon is a family-run house that never compromises on quality. A blend of the finest chardonnay and pinot noir, aged in oak barrels, has produced a rich and intense Champagne with aromas of white flowers, mint, brioche, biscuit and ginger. Magnificent.
Where: ChampagneDirect.co.uk
How much: £70
Joseph Perrier Cuvee Royale 2012
A superlative Champagne brand that deserves to be much better known, Joseph Perrier is one of the region’s most underrated producers.
Their 2012 vintage is the best yet; complex, structured and lacy fine. There is enough brioche, white flowers, nougat and butter here to keep you occupied all morning.
Where: Millesima.co.uk
How much: £55
Roebuck Estate Blanc de Noirs 2015
This is cast-iron proof that English sparkling wine can compete with the best of Champagne at Christmas. Made in Sussex, it is a simply beautiful fizz, offering a lovely nose of red cherry, strawberry and orange. The palate is no less inviting, with a rich, full-bodied but refreshing mouthful of Christmas bubbly.
Where: GrapeBritannia.co.uk
How much: £45
Black Chalk Classic 2018
The market for exceptional English sparkling wine has become very crowded of late. Moreover, with a growing number of Champagne houses investing in English vineyards, there can be no doubt that this industry is poised for a major expansion.
This example from Black Chalk is rich and robust, with enticing aromas of brioche, caramel, raspberry and citrus. English fizz at its very best!
Where: BlackChalkWine.co.uk
How much: £35
Della Vite Prosecco Superiore DOCG
Give Champagne a night off and instead discover this very lovely Prosecco from Della Vite. It’s a great alternative to Champagne and it’s also a steal at under 21 quid.
Its gorgeous pear drop aromas and fruit-driven palate speak for themselves. Too good to share with friends, really.
Where: Selfridges.com
How much: £21
White for the Obligatory Fish Course
Domaine Chanson Vire Clesse 2017
For something utterly traditional and yet delightful to enjoy with your Christmas Day salmon, try this 2017 Domaine Chanson Vire Clesse from Burgundy, France’s most famous home of chardonnay. It is the epitome of great chardonnay grown in the Mâconnais region south of the Cote d’Or: broad, intense flavours of citrus, oatmeal and toast are finely balanced out with a crisp minerality.
Where: SimplyWinesDirect.uk
How much: £15
Red Wines for Turkey, Duck or Goose
Verite La Muse 2017
Is this California’s greatest red? It’s certainly a strong contender – La Muse is a blend of the finest merlot and smaller amounts of other Bordeaux varieties.
Produced in the Sonoma region, La Muse is a very polished and sophisticated wine, with explosive aromas of graphite, plum, Christmas cake, lemon and blueberry. Basically, this is wine of immense depth, opulence and richness.
Expensive? Oh yes. But an incomparable wine treat for Christmas 2021.
Where: Hedonism.co.uk
How much: £398
Roda Reserva 2016
Please don’t let the fact that Roda isn’t top Bordeaux bias you – this is a blockbuster, and make no mistake. One of Rioja’s finest producers, Roda is a combination of old bush vines and exceptional skill in the cellar.
The 2016 Reserva is another standout example: expect an intense nose of black fruits, plum and spice, with ripe blackcurrant, blackberry and mocha on the palate.
Where: Majestic.co.uk
How much: £30
Hacienda Monasterio Reserva 2017 / Pago do los Capellanes El Nogal 2016 / Dominio Fournier Crianza 2016
Arguably Spain’s finest red wine region, Ribera del Duero’s top growers craft opulent, powerful wines that are proven to age for decades. Recent vintages have garnered much praise from critics and pair wonderfully well with rich game and meat dishes.
These three brands stood out among the competition in a recent blind tasting; they are rich and hearty reds fit for a king.
Where: GourmetHunters.com / Decantalo.com / MasterOfMalt.com
How much: £50 / £41 / £30
Cartuxa Geno Tinto 2019
Portuguese red wines have come on in leaps and bounds over the past five years – this example from Cartuxa is more than a match for rivals across the border, and will just love roast beef.
Rich and fruit-driven, it offers aromas of cherry, damson, blueberry and vanilla.
A steal at under £10!
Where: GrapeSmith.co.uk
How much: £10
Finish With Fromage
Whoever said fine dry red wine and cheese were a match made in heaven was a bit of a maniac; strong cheeses slaughter most red wines and only sweet or fortified wines tend to survive. Port, on the other hand, works fantastically well with cheese – especially Stilton.
Fonseca Guimaraens 2004 Vintage Port / Kopke Colheita 1999 Port
The magnificent fortified wines of Port are some of the greatest, long-lived and best value fine wines available in London today. Moreover, top vintage port pairs extremely well with blue cheeses, especially Stilton and will often cost far less than an equivalent bottle of top Bordeaux. It’s the safe and yet very sensible choice. These two port wines stand head and shoulders above the competition.
Where: EWWines.co.uk / VintageWineAndPort.co.uk
How much: £30 / £50
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