Last year, I declared the Champagne monopoly officially moribund: a diverse collection of regions, from Spain’s Penedès to the chalk-rich terroirs of West Sussex, are now making exceptional fizz. The paradigm that all great sparkling wine must emanate from northeastern France is simply no longer true. And the industry knows it!
Yet the Champenoise are not resting on their laurels — a major sustainability and biodiversity drive is transforming the region’s undulating landscape, helping to keep the category relevant in a fast-moving age. Meanwhile, the top houses continue to produce exceptional wines, including vintage cuvées, super-elegant rosé and Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) from famous villages like Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger. In truth, growing international competition has benefited Champagne, keeping investors on their toes and preventing a slide into dangerous complacency.
At the same time, boundaries are being pushed — and indeed broken — worldwide. In November 2024, Chilean company Vina Montes unveiled a new traditional-method sparkling, made from grapes cultivated on the Chiloé group of islands that lie off the west coast of Patagonia.
Today, your choices in the bubbly department are almost limitless. But, for those short on time, we’ve assembled a few standouts below.
Cloudy Bay Pelorus NV
£27
Founded in 1985 by David Hohnen, erstwhile owner of Cape Mentelle Vineyards in Australia, Cloudy Bay is synonymous worldwide with tropical-scented Sauvignon Blanc — an iconic style that remains in vogue after more than 35 years. Yet the winery also produces one of New Zealand’s top sparkling wines, full of rich fruit and moreish brioche flavours. At under £30, it’s a veritable steal.
Simpsons Wine Estate Flint Fields Blanc de Noirs 2020
£45
Simpsons Wine Estate has scarcely put a foot wrong since it was set up by Charles and Ruth Simpson in 2012, cultivating high-quality vineyards in the Garden of England. This delicious cuvée, based on 100% Pinot Noir, hits all the right notes: a cornucopia of red fruit and buttered toast leaps from the glass, supported by a ripe acid line — a perfect start to New Year’s Eve.
Taittinger 2016
£62
This superb house produced a standout vintage expression in 2016, taking full advantage of the very high-quality Pinot Noir that was harvested from superior plots in Champagne. Ripe, opulent and yet perfectly balanced, Taittinger’s 2016 showcases a complex nose of citrus and tropical fruit, offering power and elegance in equal measure — a beautiful and mesmerising glass of fizz.
Ruinart Rosé NV
£80
Ruinart has the proud distinction of being Champagne’s oldest producer, founded in 1729 by Nicolas Ruinart. Now owned by luxury goods conglomerate LVMH, the Maison is renowned for its supremely elegant wines, with Chardonnay stealing the show as the signature variety of this venerable outfit. I love every Ruinart Champagne; however, the rosé comes out top for its utterly seductive red fruit, beautiful structure and outstanding length. It is quite simply magnificent.
Black Chalk Classic 2021
£40
A relatively new face on the English wine scene, Black Chalk has stolen a march with consumers and sommeliers, winning pundits for its powerfully structured, acid-driven sparkling wines. The 2021 edition of the Black Chalk Classic is typical of the house style: richly autolytic and led by ripe fruit. At this rate, southern England is well on the way to becoming the new Champagne.
Oriana 2019, The Weyborne
£48
Situated at the highest point in the South Downs in Sussex, this up-and-coming estate was first planted by Nick Clark in 2007 — an exceptional terroir for sparkling wine production. A hedonistic blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir, and 10% Pinot Meunier, this super-concentrated fizz uses oak-aged wines to up the ante in terms of richness and puppy fat. It almost reminds one of Krug, albeit this is a considerably better value proposition!
Palmer & Co Brut Reserve NV
£40
Established in 1947, Palmer & Co is the brainchild of seven grower families who decided to form a cooperative alliance, united by their passion for craftsmanship in the vineyards of Champagne. In 1959, its founders purchased the cellars of a Champagne House in Reims. Little by little, they acquired other facilities as the opportunities arose, thus laying the foundation for the company’s illustrious development into a major brand. Its entry-level NV expression is finer than many vintage labels – yellow fruit and brioche are cushioned by tiny bubbles in a mouthful of sublime elegance. It represents everything that is wonderful about sparkling wine.
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