My endless search for a flawless slab of succulent meat led me to the Americana restaurant, says James Lawrence. Situated on the east side of Haymarket St James in central London, it is only a few skips away from Angus Steakhouse in Piccadilly. The gulf between the two is as wide as the Atlantic. The former served me one of the worst — and overpriced — steaks I’ve ever come across; Americana was a revelation.
How they handle the beef has long been my benchmark for assessing the panache of any chef in London. It should be relatively straightforward to produce a decent steak, but it isn’t. It takes real skill and experience to get the timing just right; my bovine travesties include overcooked, undercooked, tough-as-old-boots, raw in the centre, and flambeed to hell. So I generally leave it to the professionals. The only problem is expense; in a rampant cost-of-living crisis, the experts can charge £80-90 for a decent chunk of rib-eye in our capital. That’s a little beyond my means.
Hurrah then for Theatrelands’ newest restaurant. Offering a taste of the Deep South in London, Americana was opened in 2023 by seasoned hospitality guru Stephen Less. “Having found an incredible and stunning location in the heart of London, we designed, developed and created a unique and independent restaurant which would transport our guests into a truly Deep Southern American setting, complete with bar, private dining and event room,” he says.
On arrival, we sat down at the back of the restaurant and started chatting with the manager — a former stalwart of New York. Less’ enthusiasm does stand up to closer scrutiny: the aesthetic is very appealing, with vaulted ceilings softly illuminated by art deco chandeliers creating a serene and classy vibe. The leather booths, meanwhile, are just too damn snug, while the colourful tiling stayed on the right side of kitsch. It is an expansive space, able to accommodate over 160 diners in the main restaurant, backroom bar and private room.
We order some starters and a cocktail each to warm the evening up. One of Americana’s USPs is the opening times: the restaurant has been granted a licence to serve food and drink until 3am Wednesday to Sunday. We ate at 7:30pm on a quiet Monday; this is what happens when you both hit 40.
Still, plenty of time to chew the fat and enjoy our respective appetisers: Creole Jambalaya and Lump Blue crab cake, served with spiced tartar sauce and a scallion vinaigrette. The latter was delicious, a pungent piece of fried shellfish that had its richness curtailed by the delightfully piquant vinaigrette. My friend said little during his time with the Jambalaya – probably a good sign.
Then it arrived — a sizeable portion of rib-eye glistening with the pungent effects of caramelisation. The steak was tender, juicy, and flavoursome; the marbling of fat had been properly rendered out. It was simply fantastic, yet it cost less than £40. I’ve paid twice that in other West End haunts. Kudos all around.
We skipped dessert, although the menu tempts sugar fiends with deep-filled apple pie with salted caramel sauce, vanilla ice cream and cinnamon crumbs and the Alabama pecan pie with Chantilly cream and toasted pecans. But I’ve given up eating for the sake of it. Besides, nothing could diminish the memory of that beautiful piece of meat cooked with love and care.
This has set a new bar in a city overstuffed with purveyors of city boy sustenance. Americana, as my Boston chum would say, rules.
What: Americana
Where: 11 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4BP
Web: americanalondon.com
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