Some food writers refuse to touch ‘chain restaurants’, says James Lawrence. They’ll acknowledge (under threat of being made to watch endless reruns of Blind Date) that such places exist, but that’s as far as it goes. For many, they are the ‘unspeakables’ of the culinary world. Like deconstructed black pudding, only worse.
Does Iberica qualify as a chain? Founded in 2008 by Marcos Fernández Pardo (former music industry pro) and Michelin-starred chef Nacho Manzano, the concept has blossomed – and expanded – since its London inception. Marcos was reportedly dismayed by the abysmal Spanish food on offer in London in the early 00s, which is why he sought out the advice of Manzano.
Turning Iberica Marylebone into a roaring success, they opened a further seven restaurants in various locations across London, including Iberica Victoria, while delving into the great urban centres of Glasgow, Manchester and Leeds. Sadly, COVID-related financial heartache forced the owners to disband the sites in Scotland and Manchester in 2020. However, the Leeds and London venues were saved, protecting hundreds of jobs into the bargain.
So I was cheering, 11 months later, to find Iberica Canary Wharf as bustling and buzzy as I remembered. Set across two floors, the restaurant stakes its reputation on high ceilings, friendly staff, reliably delicious tapas and a wine list that unashamedly champions the Spanish peninsula. There’s also a summer terrace (La Terraza) on Cabot Square, perfect for alfresco Cava. If Iberica is indeed a ‘chain’, then it’s an extremely polished, classy and well-run one.
I should know; we’ve crossed paths enough over the years. Benefiting from a strong corporate culture, and an emphasis on training to deliver 21st-century hospitality, Iberica’s staff are a cut above. For over a decade, the name has been synonymous with good service. I’ve eaten at pretty much every outlet but never had cause to complain. And believe me, I love to complain.
Service and decor aside, Iberica does not believe in changing its menu every five seconds. The classic standbys have remained since 2008: salt-licked pieces of Spanish Iberico ham; tortilla; croquetas, patatas bravas; grilled peppers and paella. “Why not shake things up a little,” some might cry. They could try, of course, but I doubt that Iberica’s regulars would take kindly to it. Sometimes, comfort means familiar faces, classical dishes, and no surprises.
Our reactionary nibbling began with a plate of Jamon Ibericos – irresistible ham from Spanish black pigs, often hung for many years before its sold. You attempt to exercise caution, but inevitably it’s all disappeared after a few minutes. Some toasted bread, smothered in a tomato, olive oil and garlic paste, kept things suitably Spanish.
We also shared a piping hot fish stew, a delicious medley of hake, clams, mussels, diced potatoes and enough broth to keep Oliver Twist happy. If I’m honest, by this stage I was sufficiently stuffed, however, we soldiered on regardless. The twice-cooked lamb was a lesson in how to prepare butter-soft braised meat without veering into ‘slushy’ territory. Tender pieces of meat, well-seasoned, provided a nice foil to the fruity charms of red Priorat, a concentrated and tannic beast from Catalunya.
We finish with churros dipped in piping hot chocolate, as opposed to calling it a night, which would have been the health-conscious thing to do. That’s the problem with churros – they call to you like the Sirens of ancient Greece. “This is the best dessert I’ve eaten in 2021,” my companion declared while mopping up the chocolate sauce that he’d distributed over the seat. Another win for simplicity and gluttony, then.
Iberica continues to be popular, despite the intense competition, because it is consistent, well-oiled and seldom disappointing. It’s so Spanish that they even have a giant bulls head fixed to the wall. There are foodies who insist that family-run establishments will always trounce chains in the quality and service stakes.
We’ll leave them to their ‘truth’ about chain restaurants, but the guests at Iberica know better.
What: Iberica Canary Wharf
Where: 12 Cabot Square, London E14 4QQ
Web: IbericaRestaurants.com
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