Whenever I encounter acolytes of Thailand’s capital Bangkok, they inevitably proceed to wax lyrical about the never-ending virtues of Thai street food, says James Lawrence. I’ve heard it a thousand times: “Don’t bother with the overpriced hotel restaurants, the best dishes can be found in darkly-lit alleyways for 60 baht.” But, they add, don’t tell the whole world about our secret. We don’t want bloody tourists ruining it for everyone.
It’s certainly true that street food is an unmissable part of the Bangkok experience. For less than £5 a head you can dine like a viscount if you’re willing to inhale a surfeit of petrol fumes. These mobile food carts exist just about everywhere in the city – think street-side plastic seating and hot, spicy nibbles that are devoured between toasts. Cheap, lively and intensely filling, these numerous pop-ups offer a fantastic way of getting to know the locals and provide a nice juxtaposition to the five-star haunts.
But sometimes, comfort can be king. Nipa Thai at the Royal Lancaster Hotel offers all the intoxicating flavours of lemongrass, red chilli and galangal without the hassle of a 12-hour flight to the east. It’s an authentic street food experience, minus the street. It’s a marriage of pampering service and memories of Thailand.
Yet what you find when you arrive at Nipa Thai is a carpeted dining room, with just a few ornamental vases and trinkets to add a dash of ‘colour’. There is a noticeable absence of bling; you get the sense that Nipa Thai wants the food to do the talking, which is just as well. There’s also a good wine list, something you’d never find in a Bangkok side street.
It’s also a mercifully unhurried affair. No one at Nipa Thai mentions time slots or table vacation rules – we are invited to start at the hotel’s understated and classy bar. After a Manhattan and Bloody Mary, though, we’re ready for some sustenance. “There’s no rush,” smiles a charming waiter. But my stomach says otherwise.
We are sat at a snug table in the corner. The manager, originally from Bangkok, hands out a pair of menus and the offer of a second libation. The menu is long and all-encompassing, with sections dedicated to appetisers, curries, soups, and pan-fried dishes. I’m receiving quite an education from our host: like many aficionados of Thai cuisine, I was guilty of underplaying the importance of regionality to the nation’s palate. The manager underlined the point that Thailand boasts not one single food culture, but rather four regional cuisines that correspond to the vast geographical differences across Thailand; southern Thai cuisine is very different to the Chinese-influenced dishes found in the north.
That said, the practical assessment proved to be far more exciting than the theory. Every dish had a sublime intensity of flavour – it conveyed memories of holidays in Thailand without a hint of dilution or concessions to western palates. We start with Ruam Mitr, a selection of Thai starters including the obligatory chicken satay, paired with a very moreish peanut sauce. But the standout was the fishcakes; this prawn and chilli concoction was wonderfully offset by our sweet chilli sauce on the side. It got us in the mood for the deep-fried spring rolls, bursting with rich flavour, perfectly seasoned but not overly spiced. Indeed, judicious and delicate spicing is very much a defining feature of the food at Nipa Thai, which never assaults the palate, instead it tantalises it.
Next came the standout dish of the evening; stir-fried fresh scallops with asparagus. Perfectly cooked and seasoned, the scallops were utterly exquisite, accompanied by distinctive turmeric flavours and the fragrant aromas of galangal. Meanwhile, our beef curry was both racy and pungent, with classic aromas of kaffir lime and fish sauce. The rich coconut sauce, cosseting the tender slices of beef, successfully invoked memories of pre-Covid travel – a real nostalgic treat. It contained more flavour in one bite than my entire meal the night before.
My companion pronounced Nipa Thai “the best of its kind in London.” I’ve yet to commit myself; my experience of the competition is relatively limited, but I can vouch for the consistently high standard of the dishes we tried, the authenticity of the flavours and the fresh and often original ingredients. Moreover, the staff are unfailingly obliging, friendly and helpful. So perhaps whether Nipa Thai is London’s best vendor of Thai delicacies is ultimately irrelevant – what matters is that Nipa Thai is good, very good indeed.
I urge you to visit soon.
What: Nipa Thai
Where: Royal Lancaster London, Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY.
Web: NipaRestaurant.co.uk
Call: 020 7551 6000
- New Year Sparkle: Champagne and Beyond for 2025 - 30 December 2024
- New Year, New Bubbles: Top Sparkling Wines for 2024 - 28 December 2023
- Masala Zone Piccadilly: A Flavourful Review of London’s Indian Cuisine Gem - 17 November 2023