Hotel Review: Capofaro Malvasia and Resort

“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” John Steinbeck’s eulogy to the most enchanting part of the Amalfi Coast could just as easily apply to Salina, the second largest of the Aeolian islands after Lipari,” says James Lawrence.

Home to fewer than 4,000 inhabitants year-round, Salina boasts one of Italy’s most enchanting wine resorts — Capofaro. Owned by Tasca d’Almerita, a leading producer from Sicily, Capofaro is all about stress detox in blissful serenity — hard work is forbidden in this idyllic part of the world.

You will be staying in Salina’s foremost luxury resort, spectacularly located on a former Greek settlement once known as Didyme. Today, the rich mineral legacy of its six (now inactive) volcanoes supports an astonishing diversity of plant and animal life, including capers, which are reputedly the best in the world. Malvasia vineyards carpet the lower slopes, and the whole place feels like a Mediterranean island paradise.

There are 18 simple yet stylish, whitewashed apartments to cater to your accommodation needs, with higher categories offering more space and privacy. The Junior Suites get our vote; a separate sleeping and living area is complemented by a sea-facing terrace — perfect for that all-important pre-dinner aperitif. Best of all is the Exclusive Suite, featuring masses of space and an indoor hot tub. The only problem is you will be tempted never to leave!

Set amongst thousands of vines, just strolling around the expansive resort is enough to fill a few hours before heading back to your room for a well-earned glass of something chilled. Golf carts cater to the less physically inclined and will ferry you to-and-from your room to the reception and relaxation area. Here a gorgeous infinity pool, bar and restaurant await and on some evenings, staff organise DJ sets, with chill-out obligatory and poolside cocktails a necessity.

Ludovico de Vivo, a stalwart of Noma in Copenhagen and Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck in Bray, handles gastronomic duties. Utilising local produce from the island’s extensive bounty, the cooking at Capofaro is all heart and soul, playful yet intensely nourishing and homely. Local Malvasia, naturally, is available on tap in addition to a delectable range of wines from the Tasca group. The cocktails are excellent too.

Service with an unfailing smile? Almost. The staff are uniformly friendly; however, the resort was full the weekend we stayed, meaning that service suffered as a result, with occasional lengthy waiting times for food and drink orders. “Don’t take it personally,” my companion from Milan replied. “This is the style in Sicily — no one’s ever in a rush.”

Salina lends itself to leisurely exploration, and the other six Aeolian Islands can be explored via the daily ferry service that leaves Salina’s small dock.

Capofaro hosts a Malvasia festival in July, which is worth a special trip as you can try a range of wines from across the Aeolian Islands vineyards.

In addition, Capofaro is understandably dominated mainly by couples. However, be aware that it allows families and small children, so those searching for a totally peaceful vacation during the school holidays are likely to be disappointed.

What: Capofaro Malvasia and Resort
Where: Via Faro 3, 98050 Malfa, Sicily, Italy
Web: capofaro.it

James Lawrence