Brunello Rises: Wine Worth Waiting For

From one perspective, Brunello di Montalcino is a wine style out of touch with our fast-moving and gratification-obsessed age, says James Lawrence. Aged for a minimum of four years before release — two of those must be in oak — Brunello can take a while to emerge from its shell. If you seek immediacy and pleasure off the cuff, look elsewhere. But with just a little patience, this magnificent red wine will astound you. Packed full of flavour, concentration, and limitless energy, the top vintages of Brunello di Montalcino are virtually indestructible. Like First Growth Bordeaux, this is a wine built to last.

Of course, the appeal doesn’t end there. Produced in the verdant hills of southern Tuscany, Montalcino is every bit the Instagram paradise come to life. Yet, in the 1970s, few outsiders had even heard of the place. Back then, Montalcino was a neglected and economically-depressed hilltop town south of Siena, with no renown or international clout. Indeed, only local farmers knew that Sangiovese — Brunello di Montalcino is exclusively based on the Sangiovese grape — cultivated in this warm climate would yield potent wines that put most Chianti to shame. Planted on rocky and infertile soils, Sangiovese had developed a powerful synergy with the landscape. Nonetheless, bottles of this dark nectar went for a song.

However, an influx of American capital helped to put Montalcino on the map, and raise prices into the bargain. In the 1970s, US firm Banfi invested in the region’s vineyards, planting hundreds of acres across the zone. Buoyed by the company’s impressive distribution network, Brunello was transformed into the darling of American wine connoisseurs. Before too long, Brits were also in on the secret. As a result, the area under vine rose dramatically toward the end of the 20th century; there are now over 2,600 hectares planted, compared to 60 hectares in 1962.

Brunello di Montalcino

So what is it about this Tuscan icon that wine lovers find so appealing? Perhaps it is Brunello’s ability to improve in bottle for decades: the style is famous for its hefty tannins and powerful structure. These are tangy, savoury red wines produced in generally heavy clay soils, although there are also vines planted on Galestro, a local type of friable marl — a mixture of limestone and sandstone. The latter soil tends to yield slightly softer and aromatic wines, contrasted against the muscular heft of clay-based Brunello. Variations in altitude, ranging from 150 to 600 metres above sea level, also impact what emerges in your glass. In essence, the higher-elevation vineyards are cooler (especially at night), so the acidity may be more pronounced in the wines.

This diversity of styles has also caught the eye of investors, in addition to those who imbibe for pleasure. “Secondary market trades for Brunello di Montalcino have steadily increased over the years,” explains Rupert Millar, managing editor at Liv-ex, a leading fine wine exchange platform. “Perhaps unsurprisingly, some of the top traded brands are among the biggest brands. Several of which have featured in the 2021 Liv-ex Power 100 – our annual rankings of the most powerful brands in the fine wine market.” A delectable taste of Tuscany that delivers pleasure and profit in equal measure: what more can you ask of a wine?

Three Brunello di Montalcino wines to try
Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Silvio Nardi 2016 £226.07 (Case of 6 bottles)

A silky smooth Brunello from respected producer Silvio Nardi. Aromas of red berries, vanilla and star anise give way to a rich and exotic palate, with ripe tannins, fresh acidity and excellent length.

What: Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Silvio Nardi 2016
Where: Goedhuis & Co
How much: £226 (case of six bottles)

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2016

This historic estate has been growing vines in Montalcino since the 19th century. Described as ‘the inventor of Brunello’, Biondi-Santi remains the benchmark for concentrated and supremely elegant Sangiovese. Aged in oak casks for several years, the 2016 vintage is utterly magnificent, with layers of dark fruit, tobacco, and cedar wood. But give it a few years to really blossom.

What: Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino 2016
Where: AG Wines
How much: £165

Brunello di Montalcino
Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2015 £54.99

A traditional style of Brunello, Il Palazzone’s wines are known for their longevity and finesse. The 2015 is just starting to open up this year, revealing a bouquet of forest floor, damson, mushrooms, and green tea. Medium-bodied and very complex, this will only improve in bottle over the next decade.

What: Il Palazzone Brunello di Montalcino 2015
Where: Cambridge Wine Merchants
How much: £55

James Lawrence
Latest posts by James Lawrence (see all)