Owned by a former protégé of both Gordon Ramsey and Marco Pierre White, The Churchill Arms is a hotel and restaurant in the Cotswolds that should be booked quicker than a curse word spills from Mr Ramsey’s mouth, says Josh Stephenson. As Kevin Bacon would say, deciding to stop here for the night is a no-brainer.
Of course, with high expectations comes the increased possibility that I would end up being disappointed. However, after spending a delightful evening in the company of The Churchill Arms, I am pleased to report that it met my expectations and more.
The Cotswold countryside was as stunning as it always is: a veritable feast for the eyes of rolling hills, lush green fields and vast expanses of farmland. You do not need to spend a lot of time in its company to appreciate why so many of Britain’s elite – be they celebrities or politicians – decide to live here.
Upon arriving at the quaint town of Moreton-in-Marsh, my companion and I set about planning how we would make the short trip to the nearby village of Paxford, where The Churchill Arms is based. We did not need to think too hard.
No sooner had we stepped out from the train station than someone from The Churchill Arms came to collect us and take us there – a service they say they are happy to offer to anyone who will be staying the night with them.
From the outside, The Churchill Arms looks like any number of traditional 17th Century pubs that frequent all manner of villages across the United Kingdom.
However, looks can be deceiving, and the interior décor is very modern and in keeping with the rustic, chic feel that all the best gastropubs are trying to achieve. We were then shown to our room for the night, which like so much of the pub, mixes traditional and contemporary features with aplomb. For those looking for a weekend getaway to the Cotswolds, then The Churchill Arms will make a wonderful base.
And all of this is without mentioning the food. I managed to catch a quick word with the head chef, Nick Deverell-Smith, who told me that his philosophy is to produce classic, tasty dishes with a dash of flair.
Settling down to our table with a glass of wine recommended by the friendly and knowledgeable waiting staff, a quick perusal of the menu showed precisely what he meant. All the dishes offered were simple, seasonal fare, but as with any great restaurant, the devil is in the detail.
For the starter, I opted for a fresh crab salad with avocado and crusty bread, while my partner opted for the smoked haddock soufflé. The salad was delicious, and the fresh taste of the crab was balanced by a healthy dollop of homemade seafood sauce.
The haddock soufflé has become the dish The Churchill Arms has become renowned for, and with good reason. Cooked to perfection and brimming with flavour, it took all I could manage not to swipe it from under my partner’s nose!
Mains continued on the impressive precedent set. We plumped for sea bass with lobster ravioli and local greens alongside the pork T-bone with mashed potatoes, apple and crackling. The sea bass, in particular, is an excellent example of what The Churchill Arms does so well: good, wholesome food but with a chef’s flourish in the form of the ravioli that makes it that little bit special.
We had heard the pork T-bone described as ‘an ultimate pork chop,’ which was not far from the truth. A genuinely huge cut of meat was presented, and it was as succulent and perfectly cooked throughout as meat half its size — no mean feat.
A dessert menu was placed in front of us, and after some light cajoling, we relented and ordered a cheeseboard and an orange cheesecake. The cheese was locally sourced from a shop we passed on the way to the pub and came with some delicious chutneys and sauces to spice it up. At the same time, the cheesecake showed off those chef’s flourishes again, being presented deconstructed with a tangy orange sorbet to sweeten the deal — a wonderful finish to a delicious meal.
After all that food, it is no surprise that a good night’s sleep was not hard to come by. Of course, that is to be expected when you are sleeping in rooms as comfortable as the one provided to us. An early start was rewarded with a delicious full English breakfast packed with local ingredients and a hearty way to start any Cotswolds day.
So, should you consider visiting The Churchill Arms? Let me put it this way; frankly, it’s a no-brainer.
The Churchill Arms
Paxford, Chipping Campden, Gloucestershire, GL55 6XH
churchillarms.co
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