The SIX restaurant is located in the heart of Cambridge, within The Varsity Hotel and Spa. It is surrounded by the historic Cambridge colleges, next to the River Cam, with a rooftop terrace which has some stunning views across the city, but is the food anything more than academic? We went along to find out.
Tucked away in the side streets of Cambridge, the entrance to The Varsity Hotel and Spa is understated and modest. Six is, as you might expect from the name, on the sixth floor of the hotel and has an equally unassuming entrance. But as with many things, it’s best not to judge the book by its cover.
As we stepped into the restaurant, the atmosphere was completely different. It was warm and vibrant. As we were a little early for dinner, we were directed to a table for a drink or two before we ate. With the bar and kitchen area at the centre, Six has made great use of the high-floor location — Cambridge isn’t a high-rise city — with seating around three sides so diners can take in some great views over the city. Sadly, our visit was on a dark December evening, so although our table was perfectly located, we couldn’t take full advantage of the views.
There is an extensive cocktail menu to choose from, but our server recommended a Caipirinha, so we ordered that and a Mai Tai and sat back to relax.
Once our table was ready, we moved through to the dining area, again with a view out across the rooftops. The first order of business was to pursue the wine list. It wasn’t overwhelmingly long, as it can be in some establishments, but a good selection of white, red, sparkling and champagne, with a rosé thrown in for good measure. We chose a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2020, Bob Short for Kate, which is named in homage to the sister of the winemaker, Ben Glover, as well as to the television show Blackadder. It was a good choice — elegant, with notes of stone fruit and citrus — and went down nicely.
The menu has a simplistic look, with plenty of choices — 11 starter options, for example — but isn’t weighed down with description and hyperbole. My dining partner selected the roasted mushrooms with truffle and shaved parmesan on toasted brioche, while I went for the grilled chorizo with pea houmous and chilli dressing. Both dishes were, without a doubt, superb. The roasted mushrooms were flavoursome and meaty, and the sweet pea houmous complimented the spiciness of the chorizo perfectly.
With our expectations heightened, we moved on to the main course. My companion decided on steak and, directed by the recommendation of our excellent waiter, Marco, selected the Flat Iron steak, cooked medium-rare, with chimichurri, and accompanied by chips and grilled tomato. It was another excellent recommendation, which was cooked to perfection. Juicy and succulent, the steak was tender and tasty, and the light chimichurri added a subtle, balanced and fresh dimension that enhanced, rather than overwhelmed, the flavours.
I opted for chicken Milanese with herb-marinated cherry tomatoes, rocket and lemon. Chicken dishes, while considered quite simple in many ways, are easy to get wrong, but the chefs at Six once again hit the nail on the head. The chicken was beautifully cooked, remaining moist and tender inside the well-seasoned and crispy breaded exterior. The tomato sauce served with it had a good flavour, too, with the sweetness of the tomatoes contrasting well with the slight acidity, making the whole dish rather moreish. The sharpness of the rocket worked well alongside, adding that familiar peppery hit.
With two courses down, dessert would have a lot to live up to. I opted to try a dessert cocktail instead of a more filling dessert and ordered the New York Tart. To my delight, it really was like a cheesecake in a glass. A mix of vanilla vodka, limoncello and hazelnut liqueur, shaken with lemon juice and mascarpone cream and finished with a little lemon zest, I can’t think of a better way to have finished my meal.
My dining companion chose the more traditional dessert route, with the vegan-friendly option of coconut and chocolate tart with mango sorbet and fruit coulis. The intense chocolate and coconut hit was rich and indulgent but tempered by the cooling sharpness of the mango sorbet, which cut through the chocolate on the palette, leaving it fresh for the next bite.
Our dining experience at Six was a delight from start to finish. The restaurant was busy and lively despite being there on a chilly December weekday evening. The staff were friendly and helpful, there when we were ready to order, but not hovering over the tables to hurry choices and move diners along.
Overall, the location was excellent, the staff were excellent, and, of course, the food was excellent. If you’re in Cambridge and you don’t visit SIX restaurant
, you have most definitely missed an opportunity.
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