Picpoul de Pinet, in southern France, has been producing wine for around 2000 years, but the wider world only really caught on in the last few decades. You wouldn’t think such a tiny region could be full of so many surprises, but with award-winning wines and gastronomic delights, flocks of flamingoes and sandy beaches, this coastal region is a little gem not to be missed.
If you aren’t heading for the south of France this summer, then as you stock up the wine fridge, why not bring a little liquid sunshine to your glass instead? Ditch the old favourites, such as Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio; it’s time for a change. While there are plenty of wine producers in the region, we visited Ormarine, which has Picpoul de Pinet wines that we feel deserve to take pride of place in your wine rack.
In the early part of the 20th century, the growers in the region were forward-thinking enough to create an alliance, with 53 of them joining forces to form the “Association of white wine producers of Pinet.”
The association, driven by a passion for excellence, worked together to improve the quality of the wines produced in the region. Using only Piquepoul grapes grown within the specific terroir, they created a unique and high-quality product that started to gain greater recognition in the wine world.
That work eventually paid off, as more than 60 years later, in 1985, Picpoul de Pinet was awarded AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée Picpoul de Pinet). Recognition of the appellation was a major milestone for the region, and this original cooperative was the basis for what is now Ormarine, the largest producer of Picpoul wines worldwide.
The flavour of Picpoul de Pinet is unique, and this can only be attributed to vines. Located on the southern slopes just above the Etang de Thau, the largest of the string of lagoons which stretch along the French coast, the vineyard benefits from the winds that bring the moisture up the hillside during the day. Not only do they nourish the vines, but they also subdue the worst of the summer heat. This unusual microclimate means the grapes ripen later than others in the Languedoc region, making them naturally high in acidity and freshness.
The warm summer breezes bring a hint of salt to the hillside as they cross the mildly salty lake, collecting moisture which makes its way to the vines and the soil they grow in. This adds a little minerality to the finished wines, producing flavours unique to Picpoul de Pinet wines.
Several offerings from Ormarine are available in the UK — currently its biggest market — each with a subtly different style and flavour while retaining the minerality and citrus notes that characterise Picpoul de Pinet.
Picpoul de Pinet Villemarin 2023
From £10
Villermarin Picpoul de Pinet is fast becoming a favourite wine in our household. Its easy-to-drink nature makes it a winner for relaxed drinking with friends or accompanying a meal.
It’s subtle but fragrant on the nose, with lots of citrus notes of lemon and grapefruit. On the palate, that zestiness is bolstered by the mineral notes, which give freshness to each mouthful. The finish is long with plenty of salinity to keep the tastebuds tingling.
Like all Picpoul wines, it works wonderfully with fish and seafood or white meats and cheeses.
Picpoul de Pinet Cuvée Estela 2023
From £12
Cuvée Estela is aged on the lees, which adds complexity and flavour to the wine. The zesty notes we associate with Picpoul wines are joined by creamier notes with hints of white stone fruits. Aged in acacia barrels, a touch comes through in the wine, enhancing the flavour profile further.
It is medium-bodied and full of vibrant freshness that beautifully complements both seafood and sunshine.
Ormarine Extra Brut 2020
£17.50
If you’re looking for a sparkling wine that will be the talking point of your dinner party, then Ormarine Extra Brut should be in your ice bucket.
Made using the traditional method — with the second fermentation in the bottle — Ormarine Extra Brut is delicate yet fruity on the nose, with fresh apples and a hint of citrus-based acidity hitting you from the off. Gentle spices and dried fruit mingle on the palate, creating a rounded flavour with plenty of texture. The fine bubbles form a creamy mouthfeel that easily leads you from glass to glass.
No matter which bottle you choose, pairing it with fresh oysters will be an absolute dream. The crinkly crustaceans are part of Picpoul’s DNA — the Etang de Thau that helps feed the Picpoul vines and feeds the 2,000 tonnes of oysters grown in its oyster beds yearly.
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