The small town of Mürren, high in the Bernese Oberland region of Switzerland
, is hidden away among snowy peaks that offer some of the best skiing in the Alps. The region’s beauty shines all year round, though.
Rich in history that stretches back to its Bronze and Ice Age settlers, the isolated legacy of the people from the Lötschen valley in the Valais is still evidenced today by the Mürren local dialect, which is markedly different to that of the neighbouring regions.
The car-free village of Mürren lies on a series of rocky mountain terraces over 5,400ft up, high above the floor of the glacier-carved Lauterbrunnen valley, the often-vertical faces of which are traversed via large, gently swaying cable cars on a mesmeric journey past tumbling waterfalls, soaring kestrels and snow-capped trees lining rocky outcrops. Continue further at the next station on this, the longest aerial cableway in the Alps, and you will eventually reach the dizzying heights of the Schilthorn at 9,744ft. The air up here is thinner, and the rich greenery of the valleys and terraces below gives way to snow, ice and steep, slate-grey rocky outcrops — just the kind of place where a villain might hide his lair…
A Scenic Location
It was nearing the end of the 1960s when the makers of the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service discovered and helped to finance the final construction of the Schilthorn’s famous revolving restaurant, Piz Gloria. They knew at once it was the perfect location for the film’s scenes involving Blofeld’s hideout and spent the next five months filming and living in and around Mürren.
During a meal at Piz Gloria, diners will experience the whole 360° panorama, which takes in the famous Alpine trio of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau peaks, with views on a clear day reaching all the way across to Mont Blanc.
Alongside the famous restaurant, James Bond Walk of Fame and Bond World, the latest free-of-charge attraction to the Schilthorn is the Thrill Walk. Located at the midway cable car station of Birg, around 8800ft above sea level and about 3400ft above the village of Mürren, this walkway clings to the side of the cliff over an 820ft void. Its several sections of see-through walkway and rope bridge provide a ‘comfortable’ test of nerve for those who might be lacking a head for heights.
The Cradle of Skiing
Schilthorn is the highest-altitude ski region in the Bernese Oberland and offers a demanding slope down to the village of Mürren before continuing to Lauterbrunnen further below. Aside from its famous Hollywood connections, Mürren is known as the ‘cradle of skiing’ and is one of the most famous and historic skiing resorts in the Swiss Alps, with the mid-station of Birg being the centre of the skiing area for all abilities and also an ideal starting point for hikers.
In 1928, Mürren held the first of its famous ‘Inferno’ races. At just under ten miles long and descending over 6,500 feet, the Inferno is the longest amateur downhill race in the world. It attracts around 1800 amateur racers from across the globe every January.
Mürren was brought to prominence as a winter sports resort for British skiers by early tour operator Sir Henry Lunn. During World War I, the resort was used as an internment centre for injured British prisoners of war, some of whom Henry’s son, Sir Arnold (who was knighted for ‘services to British Skiing and Anglo-Swiss relations’ in 1952), introduced to skiing as a form of recuperation.
Sir Arnold Lunn organised the first modern slalom at Mürren in 1922, the first World Championships of Alpine skiing in 1931, and raced in the very first Inferno. Arnold’s son, Peter Lunn, captained the British team at the 1936 Winter Olympics and skied throughout his life in Mürren, competing in the Inferno at age 90, back in 2005.
Rocky Mountain Way
In the summer season, the mountains and valleys surrounding Mürren offer the active holidaymaker a plethora of activities suitable for all levels of fitness — and fear!
First on the list of any low-impact adrenaline junkie should be the new via ferrata, which begins in Mürren and heads out high above the Lauterbrunnen Valley and down into Gimmlewald. Via ferrata translates from its native Italian as ‘iron road’ or ‘iron way’ and is a mountain route lined with cables, embedded metal steps and even some ladders to traverse terrain that would otherwise be inaccessible to the average person. Each climber is equipped with a climbing harness and two carabiner hooks, which attach to the cable along the route.
Via ferratas were first developed around World War I to move non-mountain-trained combat troops through the Dolomites. The Mürren via ferrata takes around three hours to complete and covers 1.5 miles with a vertical descent/climb height of over 1300ft.
At one point, there is a narrow 262ft ‘Nepal’ bridge to walk across, and one must engage in 197ft of funambulism (the art of tightrope walking). Although you are secured to lines, some head for heights is required as the via ferrata route leads you to the cliff face at numerous points.
Now, you are connected by a safety harness, but stepping out onto tiny metal rungs, standing over thin air — above a 3280ft vertical drop to the valley floor below — really gets the blood pumping.
Yet, despite navigating this, you will still feel put to shame as you reach one of the many ‘launch pads’ along the route. Here, you may be lucky enough to witness the preparations of base jumpers as they don their wingsuits, shuffle to the edge of the platforms and tip themselves forward into the abyss before gliding down into the valley below. Not for the faint-hearted!
Valley of Flowers
Another must-do activity in the region is to undertake a mountain-view hike along the trails along the western edges of Mürren — climbing up and into the Valley of Flowers.
Although tiresomely cliché, ‘breathtaking’ is an accurate adjective to use at this point. Although short, the hiked ascents are invigorating in the clear air, and the views make any level of exertion worth it. Clear, blue skies and bright sunshine lend the sweeping emerald and lime green valleys — punctuated by swathes of flowers, orchids and roses — an ethereal quality. It simply looks unreal.
Suitable for hikers of all ages and abilities, these upper-valley trails offer some of the most beautifully contrasting vistas imaginable. Different species of flowers around every turn, carpets of alpen rose (rhododendron ferrugineum), streams, waterfalls and the distant soundtrack of the iconic sound of Alpine cow bells make this an experience not to be missed.
Relaxing and Recharging
After the multiple sensory overloads and working up an appetite, Mürren offers all you need to recharge your physical and mental batteries and unwind in style. For those with a penchant for discernably fine dining, the Hotel Alpenruh features an embracing and traditionally styled dining room with excellent service and a modern Michelin star-rated kitchen.
The Eiger Hotel also offers quality food and accommodation; its popular apres-ski Tächi Bar can be lively in high season, but the rooms are luxurious, and it offers some stunning poolside views across the Lauterbrunnen Valley.
A short walk down the road is The Eiger Guest House, which offers hearty traditional Swiss sustenance, live bands, and other events throughout the year.
Savvy travellers to the region will also want to take advantage of the Mürren Guest Card, which is free of charge and entitles the holder to myriad discounts and free entry to attractions such as the sauna and spa in Mürren’s modern sports centre and all-organic café.
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