I’ve driven the entire width of the US, from coast to coast, including every mile of Route 66, so I like to think I’ve got a good idea of what makes a decent motel and diner. Mollie’s Motel, recently opened in Bristol, is a British take on a US staple.
Designed by Soho House, it’s not what you expect from the company behind a high-end collection of more than 30 private members’ clubs, beach houses and cinemas frequented by financiers, celebrities and the well-heeled. What do they know about a £50 a night motel?
Seemingly, quite a lot. Located just off a roundabout at Cribbs Causeway on the outskirts of Bristol, the location isn’t exciting or glamorous. There’s a shopping centre nearby, a Travelodge next door, a distribution warehouse over the road and the M5 motorway behind.
The Mollie’s name is lit large, made up of bright bulbs that draw attention and seemingly mask some of the less salubrious surroundings. Step in through the glass front door, and you’re already a world away from a Day’s Inn or an Ibis Budget.
Mollie’s: The Motel
Reception is a cross between a traditional desk, a coffee shop and a bar. There’s a Scandinavian vibe that runs throughout the entire motel, with light pine and darker woods creating a welcoming ambience.
Behind the reception desk — complete with free self-serve coffee and the likes of popcorn, chocolates, lattes and whisky available for a fee — there’s an area that serves as a small lounge or co-working space. Every desk has wireless charge pads for a modern smartphone, and there’s wifi throughout that works well.
I could have avoided checking in by using the app, which would allow me to walk straight to my room and unlock the door. That’s not a groundbreaking feature these days, but it’s unusual (and welcome) at this level.
Modern and surprisingly spacious, the bedrooms are ultimately the most important part of the equation. There are no drab off-white walls, or blue bed throws that show up dubious marks and stains. Walls are covered with battened wood, light and cosy in colour, with grey paint contrasting where the wood doesn’t reach. It’s Scandinavian cool mixed with neutral tones, with the odd bit of warmth from contrasting chairs and cushions.
An app-controlled TV hangs on the wall (there’s also a proper remote control), while the wardrobe is best described as snug; there’s a rail, but it’s clearly not designed to accommodate anyone staying for more than an overnight stop.
The bathroom, clad in grey slate-coloured tiles, is way ahead of what you would expect from a budget stay. A rainfall shower provides consistent temperatures and a fantastic flow of water, while the toiletries are from the respected Cowshed brand — owned by Soho House, of course.
You might be slightly surprised to find there’s no sink in the bathroom. That’s located in the entrance hall, behind the room door. It’s an unusual setup, but it works well and maximises the space available without feeling like an afterthought.
Details are important, especially if travelling frequently. To find there are plugs and USB sockets on both sides of the bed is pleasing, and something so many (including the Sofitel at Heathrow) get wrong, and plenty will appreciate the Dyson hairdryer. There’s no real desk space, but a small table will do for an hour’s work with a laptop. The windows open, too. Only a crack, but it’s possible to get some fresh air in the room rather than having to take the forced air from the building’s air conditioning.
Mollie’s: The Diner
A motel is nothing without a diner. While other options might have a Brewers Fayre or a motorway service centre to keep you nourished, Mollie’s has its own restaurant that mixes subtle 50s Americana with modern style and cuisine.
An open kitchen runs the length of the surprisingly large building, with a mix of small and large tables, booths and bar stools in the seating area to provide plenty of choices. There’s also an outside eating area, although a roundabout to a warehouse isn’t the most exciting view.
The menu contains all the favourites you’d expect — burgers, hot dogs, steak, salads and even rotisserie chicken, for example — all at reasonable but not bargain prices. Watching the food being prepared should ensure there’s plenty of care taken, but I’m still surprised at how good the plates looked when they arrived.
Mozzarella sticks as a starter aren’t sophisticated, but they were glorious. Thick, crunchy, gooey and flavoursome, with a delightful sauce to dip them in. My dining partner opted for the grilled salmon sweetcorn succotash (£16) as a main, which was wonderfully tasty if slightly overcooked, while I had to try a mainstay of any diner experience — a burger. Keeping it simple, I opted for the Double Cheeburger (£12), which came loaded with lettuce, tomato, gherkins and American cheese, with sweet potatoes on the side. This was good and far better than you would receive from any fast food joint.
Desserts were a mixed bag. My coconut cake was epic, huge in size, loaded with sweetness and, ultimately, just too much for me to cope with. I was defeated, despite my best efforts. My partner opted for apple pie, which comes with certain expectations; a good crust, lots of tart apples and sweet sugar, and maybe a lattice or crust top. This was none of that, and instead resembled a super-sized McDonald’s interpretation of an apple pie: a fried calzone-like wrap of pastry surrounded by just three slices of apple, all topped with vegan ice cream. It was a good effort if that’s what you were expecting, but few would be thinking of this from the menu description.
A bottle of Herdade do Esporao Pe Branco white wine (£18) might not be the perfect match for the food, but it went down well. Beer, wines, spirits and cocktails were available, too, including Bowsaw American whiskey — an easy-drinking dram that rounded off the night.
Breakfast isn’t included in the rate, but there is free coffee in reception if you want to grab a cup and go. The diner offers a small breakfast menu (a full English was £12.50 while French toast was £8.50), but there’s no quick bite as you’d get from a Starbucks or Costa. Kids will love the Oreo Waffles loaded with chocolate sauce and ice cream, though.
Mollie’s: The Verdict
There’s no doubt that the team behind Mollie’s is onto a winner. The motel side is so much nicer than any of the countless cheap chain hotels you can think of, with an ambience and vibe you wouldn’t expect from a budget stay just off a motorway. There are plans to build more around the country — there’s already one near Oxford, and Manchester gets a motel soon — and, as long as the locations are chosen carefully, I can’t see any way of it not working.
The motel side was a revelation, up to the standards (and beyond in places) of bigger chains such as Hilton, Moxy or Aloft, with a refreshing Scandi style that stands out in a crowded market without needing to be garish. The diner was great, too. Maybe not great enough to warrant an outing for dinner, but good enough to ensure you don’t leave the site and find an alternative.
If this is the future of motels in the UK, sign me up for more road trips now.
What: Mollie’s Motel & Diner
Where: A4018, Cribbs Causeway, Bristol BS10 7TL
How much: From £50 a night
Web: Mollies.com
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