Lumley Castle has stood prominent above Chester-le-Street near Durham since 1389. It’s no longer the preserve of the rich and powerful, but a well-situated hotel from which to discover the northeast region, so we paid a visit to explore our inner prince and princess.
Located between the cities of Durham and Newcastle upon Tyne, Lumley Castle was created by Sir Ralph Lumley. It has a long and mixed history, with connections to nobility, the church and academia over the generations, but since 1976 has been the home to a hotel operated by the No Ordinary Hotels group. Sitting on a hill above the town, Lumley Castle has an impressive silhouette, with a traditional square footprint that is instantly recognisable as a castle.
As you wind your way up the driveway the feeling of the traditional castle fades away slightly, as there is no grand archway entrance to herald your arrival. Having not been originally built as a castle, but rather a manor house which was fortified, Sir Ralph’s vision was more about protection than ostentation so, as 21st-century guests, we’ll have to let him have that one.
Lumley Castle: The Hotel
To access the hotel reception, guests pass through the charming enclosed courtyard which is surrounded by guest rooms, before passing into the main castle. There have, of course, been some alterations made to make the building suitable for use as a hotel, but the overall feel of the reception area draws you back to centuries past – the relatively low, vaulted ceiling, exposed stone walls and uneven floors feel wonderfully historic.
Before heading back out to our courtyard room, my companion and I chose to explore the castle a little, heading towards the Library Bar for a drink; traditionally styled, the room is divided by book-filled shelving into little nooks, creating a calm, intimate atmosphere. With a large open fireplace as the focal point, it’s a wonderful place to while away a few hours and grab a bite to eat from the impressive bar menu.
After our relaxing pit stop, we headed back towards the courtyard through the twists, turns and corridors of the castle where we found Poppet, the castle cat, keeping a watchful eye – after a scratch of the head and a fuss we were permitted to pass. Our ground floor courtyard room was light and airy, with a comfortable four-poster bed at the centre. In order to enhance the mediaeval feel of the room, the sconces are styled after candelabras fitted with electric light bulbs, but the look was a little spoiled by the mismatching types of bulb used. The rest of the room was also a little tired, with more than a smattering of dust and dog-eared wallpaper abound.
It isn’t uncommon for there to be no usable plug sockets near hotel beds, but happily, there were sockets on both sides. What was odd was the lightswitch placement. Switching off the main lights once in bed required reaching over and beyond the bedside table to find the switch which was a rather long arm stretch away.
The four-poster bed was a good size and comfortable. It’s soft, softer than I might normally like, but felt plush and gave a good night’s sleep. The wardrobe was a good size too, but filled with bathrobes, an ironing board and an iron, leaving little room to hang clothes. Elsewhere, there’s a TV, a comfortable reading chair and a desk and chair that acted as a general dumping area for us but would be perfectly suitable for getting a laptop out and finishing off some work.
In our Courtyard Superior room, the bathroom was split into two, with both areas raised up above the rest of the room. The spacious corner bath was hidden behind a curtain, allowing for a more open experience if that’s what you desire. next to a proper washroom with a solid door. Impressively, toiletries were provided by Bulgari, with plenty to keep a couple well provided for over a night or two.
While on the whole, the hotel was quiet and relaxed, the courtyard rooms are split into blocks with multiple rooms accessible through an outer door, and we found that there was little soundproofing provided by the door to our room. None of the doors had a soft-close function, so when our neighbours came back much later in the evening, the door slamming was certainly a test for my cardiac function!
Lumley Castle: Knights Restaurant
Whether it’s for dinner or for breakfast after your stay, food is served in the Knights Restaurant within the main body of Lumley Castle. It’s a relaxed, comfortable place to enjoy a meal, but it has limited space, so if you intend to eat there, be sure to book ahead to avoid disappointment.
We arrived at the restaurant and were shown to our table in a little raised area at the rear of the room, which gave a lovely intimate feel. Having been asked about food allergies on arrival, the staff were already aware of my lactose intolerance. Our waiter informed us that there were some items on the menu which would not be suitable for me, but the chef could amend anything on the menu for my needs, with subtle changes or substitutions.
I chose the castle-cured salmon with spice potato pancake and celeriac remoulade. When it arrived, the potato pancake had been subbed with a dairy-free rye-based biscuit, which was delicious.
My companion chose Pate de Campagne with piccalilli on toasted sourdough which hit the right notes. It wasn’t the most flavoursome dish, but then you wouldn’t expect it to be too powerful. The piccalilli was lovely though, with the vegetables being brought alive by turmeric and other mild spices.
With starters polished off, we moved on to the mains, where I opted for slow-braised beef shin with roast garlic, celeriac puree and parsley emulsion. My dining companion selected the 10oz rib-eye steak with Cafe de Paris butter and triple cooked beef fat chips.
Both dishes arrived in good time and looked fabulous. The beef shin was wonderfully tender and was moist and succulent. It complimented the rest of the plate beautifully. The steak was a solid cut cooked perfectly, with a subtle crisp giving way to deliciously moist meat. The triple-cooked chips were as fresh as could be, being too hot to eat immediately, but the interestingly tube-shaped potato went perfectly with the glorious Cafe de Paris butter; the herbs and indulgent butter added a wonderful depth of flavour to the whole plate.
After a brief pause to enjoy the wine and soak in the atmosphere, we perused the dessert menu. Our waiter had recommended the vegan sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce for me – a recommendation I was very happy to accept. My companion selected the whisky brownie which was tremendous, although could definitely have stood some more Scotch.
Our meal was faultless – all courses were tasty and well prepared, and the waiting staff were friendly without being intrusive. Couple all that with the lovely surroundings and you most certainly have the basis for a memorable evening.
Lumley Castle: Breakfast
Our breakfast experience, however, was not quite so glowing. While the staff were just as helpful and courteous, there were no inquiries into food allergies or intolerances, and there were few vegan options available. We were directed to the buffet section of breakfast (which, thanks to the odd layout of the castle means taking a short walk back out of the restaurant and down the corridor) but there was very little worth choosing.
The small number of things on offer were rather lost on the large table, looking more like the remnants of a corporate breakfast meeting than a hotel buffet. There was a basket with a few slices of sad-looking bread, yet we couldn’t find a toaster – and this was not bread you’d choose to eat untoasted. Given the wonderful quality of the food from the night before, it was rather a blow.
Happily, the cooked section of the breakfast showed much more promise, with the menu listing local pork sausages and back bacon in the description of the full English. With expectations high, I placed my order, with my companion opting for simpler poached eggs on toast.
Initially, the results seemed pretty good – but the claim of a “local pork sausage” looked somewhat dubious, looking mass-produced and, frankly, low quality. It was only showing any colour from cooking on one side too, which did nothing to enhance the appeal. The poached eggs on toast also failed to hit the spot, with my companion feeling they were too watery and had very little flavour.
However, more positively, the rest of the breakfast was delightful. The bacon was thick, well cooked and delicious, the hash brown was crisp, the tomato had been perfectly prepared, the mushroom was cooked well and the black pudding was flavoursome.
Lumley Castle: The Verdict
While the stay wasn’t without some minor quibbles, it was thoroughly enjoyable. Lumley Castle has plenty to offer, whether you’re staying or just visiting for an evening meal. It’s teamed up with Escape Rooms Durham, offering an escape room challenge centred around its very own ghost, Lily of Lumley, which will keep a group entertained for a couple of hours before dinner. With good food, a healthy wine list, excellent staff and delightful surroundings, it’s worth every penny.
The room, while a little dated, is pleasant, spacious and well specified. And, of course, you can’t possibly complain about the building and its surroundings. Only the breakfast really lets things down which, at £18.75 per person, is a shame.
The castle is quirky and fun, with some wonderfully friendly and helpful staff on hand if you need anything, with overnight rates starting from as little as £115 for a night in May, with a suite closer to £400. At that price, it’s a bit of a bargain, and a world away from a predictable but boring chain hotel, but it’s the evening meal that really makes it.
What: Lumley Castle Hotel
Where: Ropery Lane, Chester-le-Street DH3 4NX
Web: LumleyCastle.com
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